Western Wall Tunnels, Part 2

The people who run the tunnels are, perhaps, a bit biased, a quality rarely found in Jerusalem. (Yes, that was sarcasm. Everyone in Jerusalem is biased. Especially when it comes to this small piece of real estate.) The tunnels are, of course, run by Jews, Jews who would probably favor the building of a third temple, should that ever become possible. While this is probably a common desire in Judaism, it is by no means universal, even among religious Jews. For example, my professor, Rabbi Moshe, is very uncomfortable with the idea of a third temple, and with the political and religious stance of the people who run the tunnel, with good reason, I think. In Classical Rabbinical Literature, the temple and cult system have been replaced by prayer and Torah study. This was done out of necessity - after 70AD there was no temple, nor any hope of rebuilding one, and if Judaism was to survive, changes had to be made. Of course, the changes made, though pragmatic, were backed up with arguments typical of the religious leaders of that day. Verses like Hosea 6:6 "For I desire mercy and not sacrifice, And the knowledge of God more than burnt offerings." and Micah 6:6-8 were referenced, pointing out a theme that played throughout the Hebrew Scriptures: God never desired the sacrifice alone, His real concern was the heart behind the sacrifice. Other Rabbis argued that revelation was progressive: God first asked Israel to offer sacrifices to Him because they would have sacrificed to something. Then, once the faith had progressed and the One True God was known, sacrifices were no longer needed and worship of God changed as the Temple was destroyed.

Thus, for some Jews at least, the temple is no longer necessary, or even desirable, especially considering the current political situation.

It has to be faced. The Temple Mount/Dome of the Rock is a hot spot. Jews and Christians are after it, Muslims control it, and at the slightest hint of a change in the status quo, everyone is up in arms. This fall the situation has been tense, with Muslims taking what we might consider relatively minor issues as a huge threat. Rocks are thrown, Israeli police are sent in, Muslims get even more worried...It can be a vicious cycle. For Jews who truly want peace in a world where the very breath of a rumor about a temple can spark another intifada, there is little incentive to want a third temple.

I think I will save further comments for another blog post. For now, here are some pictures and explanations of what we actually saw on our field study.

Here Rabbi Moshe shows us a model of the hill upon which the mount was built, both before the platform and with the platform. Right now a very disproportionate Second Temple is on the platform.

Here is another model of the Temple Mount. There is again a disproportionate Second Temple model on top of the mount (probably due to the pro-temple bias of the organization). The western wall can be seen, with the plaza and buildings that are along it today.

Here we are, walking through a tunnel along part of the platform wall. You can see on my right part of a very large Herodian stone. I don't have the exact figures, but I believe the largest of these stones weighed around 600 tons. How such a stone could even be moved, especially with the technology of the first century is beyond my imagination.

These are candles lit in the area which is "opposite the foundation stone and the site of the Holy of Holies." There is a synagogue in this tunnel complex, but apparently only men are allowed in, so the women pray in this area.

Back outside the walls I got a picture of the plaza. (The Dome of the Rock is on top of the plaza, off the left side of the picture.)

Here's a view of the area at night, from sort of a south-west direction.

Western Wall Tunnels, Part 1

This last Thursday evening I went, with my Rabbinical Thought and Literature class and our professor Rabbi Moshe, to the Western Wall Tunnels. For those of you unfamiliar with this site, let me give you some background information.

You will doubtless remember from long forgotten Sunday school lessons, that David (and Joab) conquered Jebus (Jerusalem) and made it his capital. (Hint: for a refresher, see 1 Chronicles 11.) This is the area today known as "The City of David," on the Eastern Hill, located between the Kidron Valley and the Cheese-maker's Valley. Of course you also remember the story a little later of the plague that God sent on Israel that stopped when David offered sacrifices on the threshing floor of Araunah the Jebusite (2 Samuel 24). Keep in mind that threshing floors are high points, and the closest high point to Jerusalem was directly north (the upper part of the Eastern Hill). Add to this 2 Chronicles 3:1 ("Then Solomon began to build the house of the LORD in Jerusalem on Mount Moriah, where the LORD had appeared to David his father, at the place that David had appointed, on the threshing floor of Ornan the Jebusite.") and we have the beginning of our story in the beginning of the temple. The majority view is that Solomon's temple (the first temple) was built due north of the City of David, under the area where the Dome of the Rock is now.

Of course, between Solomon's time and our own there are dozens of layers of history. The first temple was destroyed by the army of Nebuchadnezzar in 586BC. It was rebuilt ("Second Temple") by Ezra, and was finished about 516BC.

Then Herod the Great came along and decided that temple needed improvement. It was, perhaps, the most ambitious building project he ever undertook: it wasn't finished until 60AD, over 60 years after Herod's death. It was, at least, a stunning complex of buildings when finished, one of the wonders of the ancient world. However, in the planning stages, Herod was not content to merely use what nature had supplied. No. The hill upon which the current temple stood was not big enough for the grandiose structure he desired to erect. So he began by expanding the hill, fashioning vaults and filling in earth, creating a platform grand enough to hold a glorious temple.

That temple was destroyed by the Romans in 70 AD. Today, all the remains is the platform, upon which the Dome of the Rock now sits. The only piece of the original hill that is still visible is the rock inside the dome, from whence it draws its name.

(Note: at this point I should mention that there is still some amount of scholarly debate over where the temple actually was, and if the structure which is today called "The Temple Mount" ever actually held the temple. However, the case stated above seems to be the majority view, so for the sake of this blog post, we'll assume they are correct.)

I suppose it is reasonable that the Jews would revere the platform upon which their most holy site had stood, but why the Western wall (which, by the way, they never called "The Wailing Wall")? The answer, of course, lies in classical rabbinic literature: "The Shekinah is in the west." Probably because the Holy of Holies would have been on the western side of the structure, the western wall of the structure is now the most revered.

Which brings me (finally) to the tunnels. When the Jews first gained control of Old Jerusalem and the Temple Mount/Dome of the Rock area in 1967, one of the first things they did was bulldoze an area west of the Western Wall, giving Jews the opportunity (and the room) to visit the wall for the first time in years. However, they only cleared a relatively small area, compared to the length of the wall. The tunnels start just north of that plaza and continue on, exploring the extent of Herod platform, under the modern homes and places of business of the people of the Arab Quarter. Parts of these tunnels are open to tourists (by appointment) and that's where we went.

Now that you have enough background information, I'm going to pause for the night and continue these thoughts in a second post tomorrow.