The View from Afar

Though I have never claimed to be the most informed citizen, occasionally I do still keep up with random doing in the States, though friends, family, internet, podcasts, etc. For the most part I can still understand and relate to what is going on, but every now and something strikes a foreign note and I think, "Oh, I'd forgotten about that!" Or "What, that's going on there?"

Perhaps the thing that struck me most recently is the occurrence of fall and Halloween, neither of which has put in an appearance over here. I read the comics far more often than I read news stories, and they are full of pumpkins and costumes, candy and fallen leaves. It rather surprises me to remember that all this is a part of daily life over there right now, and then to realize that I don't really miss it. Technically speaking, I do miss fall a lot. Halloween is not a holiday whose absence I'll mourn, though. Today we were talking about all the money that people spend on Halloween and the skanky costumes women seem to find so necessary. Yeah, I don't miss that. I rather appreciate the generally conservative dress standards here.

I also suppose that Thanksgiving and Christmas decorations are out with vengeance, ensuring that people will be sufficiently (materially) prepared for these holidays months in advance. This is the second year that I've missed those preparatory months…and I don't really miss them. At least not that part of them.

It's very odd, but the culture I grew up in is slowly becoming slightly more foreign to me. Come to think of it, I never did fit into that culture all that well to begin with. I'm going to be a REALLY ODD DUCK once I arrive back "home." Consider yourself warned, months in advance.

Reflections on past thoughts

Though it's been a while since I've posted much of anything here, it's not from lack of thought. It may be from lack of coherent thought, but I'll try to lay some of my more recent thoughts in order here, for your viewing pleasure.

One thing I've been reflecting on is how much coming here has changed me. For example:

The other day I was reflecting on the time, 11 years ago this month, when I came to Jerusalem for the first time.

I remember visiting the Church of the Holy Sepulcher and one of the members of our group was yelled at by a priest because he supposed his picture had been taken. Looking back, that seems so bizarre. I have since been to the church, numerous times, with numerous people and numerous cameras and have never had any similar incidents. I think it must have been just a fluke - the priest there that day, who was probably also a tourist, was just extra sensitive about pictures or something. I remember that we as a group were a little freaked out about it, though, wondering if that was the norm, wanting not to do anything wrong.

We were so naive, both in our daringness and in our caution. Some of the things we avoided doing out of caution were just as crazy as some of the things we did out of ignorance. Of course, that was pre-intifada. Some things have changed in Jerusalem since then. Nevertheless, it amuses me to remember some of my thoughts from that time.

For another example, the other day I asked one of my friends who started in the master's program here at the same time I did, "Do you ever think about what an idiot you were?" Realizing quickly that it probably wasn't the most tactful question, I started to back-track and explain. Fortunately, he realized what I was getting at and a terrible misunderstanding was avoided. The thing is, looking back, I remember all sorts of little thoughts and expectation and ideas that I had about the world and Israel and even higher education, and slowly but surely, those ideas have been almost imperceptibly changed. Yet looking back, the change is dramatic. Ideas of what is safe and what isn't have been revised as experience has informed my knowledge. Experiences that were once new and strange have become part of daily life. Which is not to say that I feel utterly independent and capable of living here indefinitely, but I am closer.

In a similar way, it's interesting to talk to the semester students or other people who arrived here a relatively short time ago. I hear some of the thoughts that I used to think about Israel coming out of their mouth. I myself have only been here about a year, but that has been long enough to dramatically change the way I think, in some areas at least. I consider my past self rather naive, and I daresay that if I continue to stay here, my future self will think the same of my present self. So, every now and then, when I hear some of the semester students talking, I sort of shake my head and smile to myself and wonder at Dr. Wright's and Diane's great patience in putting up with the same stupid questions and actions semester after semester. I'm grateful for it, though.

I suppose this sort of process always happens when one goes to a foreign country. At first everything is new and exciting (or frightening), but after a year or two, things start to settle into a (hopefully) more proper perspective.

I wonder, though, if in some ways this process is more painfully obvious in the holy land. The people who come here are not generally of the sort who travel to learn about food and culture and see the scenery in a different land. That may be part of the package, but most tourists come here for a religious reason, a pilgrimage, more or less. I won't speak for Jews or Muslims or even orthodox Christians, but most Protestants seem to come feeling that they have a knowledge about and connection to the land, something like "This is the place where Jesus lived and I've studied Jesus all my life so I should know something about it." There is an impossibility of separating the land of Israel from the theology of the visitor. While this is not necessarily a bad thing in and of itself, it can often lead to erroneous views being passionately propounded. Rather than taking the time to sit and listen and learn about the land from the inhabitants (as I assume one would do in any other country one visited) people tend to take hard and fast stands, such as: "Israel has the right to exist and should push all the Palestinians out," or "Israel is an oppressive government and the Palestinians deserve their own country," or "No one in the Orthodox Church can possibly be actually saved," or "Of course Archaeology proves/disproves [you choose] the Bible!" for a few examples. Armed with these and other immutable ideas, evangelicals descend upon the "Holy Land" and wreak all sorts of havoc. It doesn't help that no matter what inflexible stance someone takes, there will be someone here with a stance that is diametrically opposed, possibly even in the same tour group.

To my shame, such opinions may have not differed so very much from my own not long ago. If nothing else, my time here has emphasized to me the importance of listening to all sides of a story before forming an opinion, and, even once some sort opinion has been formed, to be very careful, tactful, and reasonable in expressing it. I don't wish to imply that it is wrong to ever take a stand, but there are times when it is wiser to be slow to decide.

The Shuk

Today I went to the big Jerusalem shuk (open air market) for the first time, which is rather sad, considering how long I've lived here. It was about time.

So this morning I headed off with my friend Anna. It's a bit of a walk, though not too bad. I'm still working on putting the city together in my mind, so it helped. I need to get out more.

I rather enjoyed the shuk itself. All sorts of colorful displays of fruits and vegetables, meat, fish, nuts, grains...whatever you could want.

...occasionally birds also take advantage of the spread.

Generally priced cheaper than anywhere else in the city. As we had just gotten groceries for our flat yesterday I didn't buy much. Just oatmeal, beans, and some pita. (We kind of eat a lot of pita here.) I did get to watch Anna buy all sorts of goodies, though. I rather like the atmosphere. Ironically, not at all like Walmart.

One place also had some really cool fruits that neither Anna nor I recognized. They looked sort of like pink and green artichokes. After googling it, I discovered that they are "Dragon Fruits" or "Pitaya." They look tasty.

Thus ends the tale of my shuk trip.

Heart, we will...stand and wait

Just for fun, here are two poems I have come to enjoy for various reasons and in various ways over the years.


Sonnet 19: On His Blindness
John Milton

When I consider how my light is spent,
Ere half my days in this dark world and wide,
And that one talent which is death to hide
Lodged with me useless, though my soul more bent
To serve therewith my Maker, and present
My true account, lest He returning chide,
'Doth God exact day-labour, light denied?'
I fondly ask. But patience, to prevent
That murmur, soon replies, 'God doth not need
Either man's work or his own gifts. Who best
Bear his mild yoke, they serve him best. His state
Is kingly: thousands at his bidding speed,
And post o'er land and ocean without rest;
They also serve who only stand and wait.'

Heart, We Will Forget Him!
Emily Dickinson

Heart, we will forget him!
You and I, tonight!
You may forget the warmth he gave,
I will forget the light.

When you have done, pray tell me
That I my thoughts may dim;
Haste! lest while you're lagging.
I may remember him!

Diaspora Museum

This last Friday I went on a field study for my "History of the Jews in the Medieval and Modern Periods." We went to the Diaspora Museum in Tel Aviv. We spent a good 4 hours there, and probably would have stayed longer if they hadn't been closing early because of Sukkot.

To summarize, the museum looks at various aspects of life for Jews in the diaspora and attempts to answer the question of how they remained essentially Jewish, in spite of 2000 years separated not only from their homeland, but also from each other as they were spread across the globe. They put the answer into 6 "Gateways," which, if I remember correctly were:

1. The Life cycle (birth, circumcision, education, bar mitzvah, marriage, etc.) and the the yearly cycle (Rosh Hashannah, Yom Kippur, Sukkot, etc.)

2. Communities, separate from the peoples with whom they dwelt, including their own governmental structures.

3. Remembering (both persecution and accomplishments)

4. Faith (and places faith is expressed)

5. Culture, as anchored in language

6. Among the Nations (and their history as connected to some of the places they were dispersed)

The museum finished with one final gate:

7. The Gate of Return

It was an interesting museum, different because it had very few real artifacts, but many imitations to assist it in the story it told.

Here are a few pictures from the museum:

The Hebrew in the back ground has the heading "Lo Tov" (no good) and clearly the scene in the foreground is that of a wedding. Not to fear, though. The conclusion is not that marriage is not good, but rather that "it is not good for man to be alone." (Genesis 2:18)

In the "Faith" gateway they had a number of model synagogues from all over the world. This first one is from Florence, Italy.

And this one is Chinese.

These two statues are called Ecclesia and Synagoga and I'm sure you can guess what the represent.

Such is the picture of Judaism under 'Christian' rule.

This next picture is an illustration of a passage from the Talmud "If two grasp a garment."

A menorah near the end of the museum - Welcome back to Israel!

After the museum closed we ate some lunch in the Sukkah. Then we went to Old Jaffa for a little while and just explored. If nothing else, the water the is beautiful.

It was a good trip. I got to hang out with my sister AND learn a lot about Judaism and the history of the Jewish people. I'm only auditing the class, but I'm looking forward to learning all sorts of things in there this semester.

Day Four: The final conquest

There's nothing quite like a bible, a journal, and hot chocolate on a beautiful Galilee morning, Adventurer #3 decided.

Nothing quite like playing in the cool waters and having a small fire of coals.

Unfortunately, the peacefulness couldn't last forever. The activities of the last day of the adventure beckoned, and after breakfast and another dip in the lake, the adventurers rose to meet the days challenges.

The first leg of their journey went around the lake and to the top of Mt. Arbel where they would have had a spectacular view of the lake region, if the air had been clearer. Undaunted, they climbed down the cliff and explored the caves that had sheltered Jewish rebels during the time of Herod the Great.

After climbing back up they made their way to Tiberias where some members of the team were nearly vanquished by a shwarma...and eggplant.

Though the danger was mortal, their lives were miraculously preserved and they spent some small time exploring the water front.

Cramming themselves into their minute vehicle once more, they journeyed to one more crusader out-post, Belvoir. Once there they managed to procure some armor for this, their final assault upon a castle.

From the armory they proceeded to the art gallery where they posed with a holy heart.

The assault on the castle itself was brief, but bitterly fought. In the skirmish the moat monsters took possession of Adventurer #4 and held her for ransom for most of the rest of their time at the castle. The rest of the explorers considered the inside of the castle and admired the spectacular view of the Jordan Valley that could be seen from that height.

All too soon it was time to get back in the now beloved car for the last leg of the journey home. As the adventurers drove down the Jordan valley they caught sight of the full moon rising over the Jordanian hills across the way and paused to savor the moment with the last of the Druze apples.

Even adventures must come to an end, or at least a transition point. The five adventurers, blessed with friendship and memories, transitioned back into the adventure of daily life in Israel.

Day Three: Mightier than Nimrod

The small platoon rose early and broke camp at the crack of dawn.

...Or perhaps a bit later...

The cool breezes and quiet plash of the waves on the shore were so peaceful that even once wakened, the adventurers paused in their campaign to enjoy the waters and ate a companionable breakfast together.

Soon after breakfast, however, they packed everything up and squished back into the car, intent upon bringing yet another fortress under their dominion.

Though they were determined in their missions, a sign appeared and sent them on a detour. (You know, sort of like an omen, but actually, more like street sign.) The hexagon pool seemed to be calling them. Adventurer #3 who remembered in past days expressing a desire to visit the hexagon pools was overjoyed when, on a whim, Adventurer #1 turn the car off the main highway and down a dirt road in pursuit of said pool.

This hike too the pool, though backwards by most standards (what is the deal with always going down and then back up here?) was short, the geologic formations were entrancing, and the water was cold. Not feet-numbing cold as Adventurer #3 was accustomed to in her mountainous home, but pleasantly chilly when compared to the warmth of the day.

The wildlife was even amenable to having pictures taken.

The adventurers even tried out their parachuting technique, jumping from some rocks into the pool. It might need a little more work.

After having enjoyed the pool and a bit of lunch, the team of 5 continued on their way, refreshed and ready for battle. Passing through a small village, they took stock of their rations, and, realizing the imminent possibility of starvation if more food was not attained quickly, they paused to purchase provisions for the remainder of their journey.

Continuing on their way, they soon caught sight of the objective of their quest: Nimrod's Castle. Hastening to climb the hill it was situated upon, they soon came face-to-face with the walls of the fortress. Working as a well oiled machine, they quickly scaled the walls, dispatched the guards and soldiers, and took control of the fort.

They surveyed their new domain.

They spent some time becoming intimately acquainted with the north east tower and with the more illustrious personages who inhabited their castle (i.e. rock hyraxes).

Then, with the hour growing late, they started to make their way back to their campsite, pausing only for important things like ice, hot chocolate, and firewood (which was gathered with the sole purpose of making their ride back to camp just that much more squished and uncomfortable...but ended up being useful for cooking their evening meal as well).

Again this night there was great enjoyment in the sea and around the fire as the friends rested and played and talked together into the night before quietly dropping off to sleep.

Day Two: Cair Paravel and Beyond

Friday morning at 8am on the dot (or perhaps a little after the dot) the five adventures were on their way, continuing north along the coast. They knew where they were going but not how to get there. Turning in search of information they suddenly saw the object of their desire: the Baha'i gardens, in all their manicured glory. It turns out that the five adventurers have mad luck like that. It also turns out that only a couple levels of the gardens are open to tourists not on a tour, so the five adventurers only managed a view at the bottom...

...and from the top.

Perhaps it as just as well. Worn out from their adventures the previous night, the five stalwart companions were in no shape to climb thousands of stairs that morning.

Instead, they continued in their journey northward. Once, they encountered and Israeli Napoleon, who fortunately allowed them to pass unchallenged. However, he did charge them to go to Acco and to conquer where he had failed. They did.

With the city firmly beneath their feet, the ravenous friends set out in search of sustenance. Adventurer #1 followed his nose to the falafel, which was quickly consumed.

Filled and happy they continued their exploration of this newly conquered city. Tyranny was not their objective, but before their benevolence was known some of the natives jumped off the city walls into the Mediterranean in an attempt to escape.

Fortunately no lives were lost and the natives soon returned to the city, basking in the favor of their new rulers.

However, like Alexander the Great, the army of five felt the need for new challenges, new land to conquer, and so they move onward, heading west and north into the hills in search of a rumored stronghold in the land: the Crusader Castle Montfort. Riding swiftly (i.e. trudging) they crested a ridge and paused to enjoy the breath-taking view and to form their plan of attack.

The castle was deserted, but as they began to wend their way through the trees and overgrown shrubs and rocky passages they began to wonder if they had somehow made their way through a wardrobe door and arrived at Cair Paravel.

Meanwhile, however, a battalion of orcs (*scream*)

arrived at the castle and attacked the adventurers five. The orcs were soon vanquished, but in the battle the five were separated, thus accounting for the difficulty they had in all arriving at the vehicle at the same time.

Leaving Cair Paravel behind they traveled through Archenland and the most magnificent mountain and valley view any of them had seen in this country, and so they left Narnia behind.

That night they encamped at the Sea of Galilee, bathing in the cool waters and roasting meat over a roaring fire.

There the group of five was joined by five more adventurers (Joshua, Bethany, Seth, Emily, and Steve). The ground was hard and rocky, but as Adventurer #1 was heard to say, "The rocks get softer the longer you're here." None of the adventurers struggled with sleeplessness that night.

(we love JUC!)

Day One: In the Shadow of Herod

Thursday, October 1, 2009, started out in a normal way, with occasional "Rabbits" greetings being exchanged. Little did the five adventurers know what would befall them this day.

Adventurer #1, Cameron, pick up the car from the rental agency that morning with Adventurer #2, Ian. Number 1 picked up Adventurer #3, Alana, and her adventure gear in the early afternoon and went to the school where the picked up #2, #4 (Liz), and #5 (Christiana). By 4:45 they were all packed like sardines in the car and ready to begin their adventure.

They headed west out of Jerusalem, and then north, trying (and failing) to avoid traffic. They were headed for Haifa, but it was getting late and they were getting tired. Suddenly, a road sign appeared, indicating that Caesarea Maritime was near! Perhaps this would be a good place to spend the night, they thought. They drove to the aqueduct and extracted themselves delicately from the car, checking to make sure every limb was still attached to its original owner. Once everyone was again standing on their own too feet, the intrepid explorer proceeded to the beach. It was mostly deserted. As they looked around they noticed several signs, all in Hebrew. In fear and trepidation they wondered if said signs forbid camping. No answer to this dilemma was forthcoming, alas, as none of them had extensive knowledge of modern Hebrew.

Wanting to stay, they got back in the car to explore a little further. Alas, their lust for adventure lead them into mis-adventure. In their heavily loaded car, they forgot to take notice of the softness of the sand over which they drove and shortly became stuck. Adventurers 2-5 tumbled out of the car and pushed. Good progress was made and solid ground was but 20 feet away when an even softer section of sand was reached and the car spun out and high-centered itself, simply out of spite. Pushing availed nothing. The adventurers started digging around the tires and searching for things to put under them, still to no avail.

Growing more hungry and more tired by the minute, they finally paused to eat a meager meal of pita, hummus, and apples. Then the digging commenced in earnest. The tires were propped up by pieces of wood they had found and then they attempted to clear out the sand that the car was resting upon. The hour was growing late and things were beginning to look more hopeless when they made their final attempt. They again pushed with all their might, and this time the car moved, much to their excitement and relief. Even the magical garden gnome found by #4 and #5 in their wanderings shouted for joy when the car reached firm ground.

Time had not passed slowly in all their diggings, however, and it had now become quite clear that they were too tired to try to find another camping spot, whether or not this one was legal. They found a stretch of sand near their car, to watch, lest it be towed away in the night, and bedded down, stretching out their sleeping bags under the nearly full moon, in the shadow of Herod's Aqueduct.

Sleep was coming quietly when a jeep roared past, down the road they had failed to pass through. During the night several vehicles passed, some within mere feet of their sleeping place, most of them blaring loud Israeli pop. It was probably not the most restful night any of them had ever had. Nevertheless, the stars and moon and roar of the ocean made it pleasant.

In the morning they awoke to a sun nearly invisible because of the haze. The car had not been towed away during the night and they were able to pile into it for day two of their adventure, after admiring the hole they had dug themselves out of by the morning light.