December 11, 2008
Today, as I understand, was kind of our last “full” day. Not that the following days won't be full, they'll just be full of more traveling and fewer stops.
Today, however, was pretty amazing. I know some people have gotten a bit tired of seeing temple after temple, and I can understand where they’re coming from. It is a bit overwhelming. But at the same time, they’re all so amazing and beautiful. I wish I understood more of the pictures and hieroglyphics. I’m sure I would enjoy it even more.
Our day started on the bus at 6:00 and as we drove to our first site we were greeted by the sight of all sorts of hot air balloons, rising in the morning mist.
We started out at The Valley of the Kings where a large number of tombs have been found, mostly dating to the New Kingdom, I believe. We got to see Tutankhamen’s tomb, which was pretty amazing. Not so much because if its size or complexity or the beautiful paintings (it was really quite small and simple, though the paintings were nice), but because of what was found in it, in spite of its size. If that is what a fairly minor Pharaoh with a small grave gets, what did someone like Rameses II have in his tomb? I’ve seen most of the treasures in Tutankhamen’s tomb (see day 3) and I’ve seen the space, and I’ve seen pictures of how the treasures fit into the space, but I’m still not sure that I believe it. It was crammed! We also got to see Thutmoses III’s tomb, which I was excited about. There is some thought that he was the pharaoh of the oppression or of the exodus. As “evidence” of that people reference that fact the some pictures in his tomb show people being overwhelmed by water. I’ve now seen those pictures… I’m unconvinced. They’re pretty schematic pictures (stick figures drawn with black and red sharpies is what they look like). Still, interesting. We also saw the tombs of Ramses I and IX. Good times.
Next we went to Hatshepsut’s mortuary temple (Deir el-Bahri), which I had also been looking forward to. It was quite impressive.
It was also next to the ruins of Thutmoses’ III mortuary temple, and that of a Middle Kingdom Pharaoh who’s name escapes me at the moment. (Mentuhotep, I think.) That is pretty much the only thing from the Middle Kingdom that we’ve seen, oddly enough. We learned a bit about Hatshepsut. She was an interesting lady... She was of the royal line, but a woman wasn't allowed to be Pharaoh. Her son/step son/son-in-law (Thutmose III) was Pharaoh and she was he regent, and then she just took over. Kind of like Athelilah. She portrayed herself as a man, though. All the pictures of her in the temple were male. When she died, Thutmose III became Pharaoh for real. During his reign he or someone apparently chisled Hatshepsut's face and name off of everything, thus effectively destroying her hope of an afterlife. He (or someone) must have hated her a lot, and yet, that doesn't quite seem to fit either. Anyway, during her time the land had peace and seemed pretty prosperous.After that we stopped at Deir el-Medina, which was yet another place that I was glad to go. I have heard it mentioned many times, even in fictional books, and now I can place a scene with the name. It is where the workers for the tombs lived (and where they build their own tombs) and Dr. Wright things that the living situation there might have been similar to what the Israelites experienced.
Anyway, we went into two of their tombs. They are much smaller than those of the Pharaohs, but the paintings are generally much more elaborate. They were beautiful. It is my one sorrow in life that I am not able to take pictures in most of these places.Our fourth stop was at a temple…Ramses III’s temple? I don’t remember. I do know, though, that one of the scenes on the wall showed his battle with the sea peoples, so that was fun. It's terribly eroded, though, so that's unfortunate.
We finally got to stop for lunch. 5:30 to 1:30 is a long time to go between meals. (And then we didn’t get dinner until 10.) It was a good lunch. After lunch we went to the Ramsesium which I loved. It has the huge, broken statue of Ramses II on which it is thought that Shelly based his poem, “Ozymandius.”
So Cameron recited it for us. One wonders what it looked like back when the poem was written. How much actually was covered by sad? I mean, it’s pretty close to the river, and it’s pretty well uncovered, not half-sunk into the level sand that surrounds it on all sides… Of course, the poem is really only tangentially related to the statue, but still. I often find myself wondering what these places looked like 1) before reconstruction and 2) during the times they were made. They are pretty impressive now. What would they have been like then? Anyway, I really enjoyed that place. It was beautiful, with the light, the smell, the few plants, the stone... Just a very lovely place. I find that I like Egypt quite a lot now, in the middle of their winter. I’m not sure that I would like it quite so much in July.We visited an alabaster factory which was entertaining. It was cool to see how they hand made some of the vases. They were very lovely, and very outside my price range. Oh well.
The last stop…the Memnon Colossus, I think. Anyway, two large, impressive statues.
I agree with Isaiah – it would be fun to climb them. Egypt would be much more fun if we were allowed to climb on and take pictures of everything. Oh well. I suppose they have a reason. It was also fun to see an Egyptian girl, dressed all in red, driving her sheep and goats along. There are all sorts of things like that which are just a glimpse of the past for us.
After that we headed back to Luxor and Maria and I went shopping together. It was mostly a fun experience, though bargaining makes me a bit nervous. Still, I think I did fairly well, on most things…maybe. Still probably got cheated. What can you do? At least I have Christmas presents now! We went back to the hotel for a while, and then I went to a Coptic church with Mina (our guide), Nai’ir (our travel agent – don’t know how to spell his name), Matt, Nathan, and Isaiah. It was interesting. On our way back Nai’ir gave Nathan and I some “holy bread” which was sort of in the shape of a cross. I have to say that the Coptic church interests me. It has endured so long in Egypt. I can’t say that I’ve known many Copts, but I’m sure there must be at least some who are truly saved. I just pray that God will purify, grow, and protect His church.
Now we’re back on the train, headed to Cairo. Yet again, I am exhausted and am going to bed.
Top things to hear in the market of Luxor:
1. Baksheesh!
2. You have beautiful eyes.
3. For you I make a special deal.
4. Hello, Lady, look at this.
Other Joys:
1. I love that I have used the words, “La, shukran” innumerable times in this trip. I wish those weren’t the only arabic words I knew.
2. It makes me smile every time Mina says, “Come on, Sphinxsters!”
No comments:
Post a Comment