Tuesday, November 10, 2009

Today is a good day.

So far, at least.

Mostly because I finally got the package that my amazing former roommate (Katie) sent me. So, Katie, here's a shout-out to you! :)

Here's all the loot. :)
Here's me, testing out the loot.

And here are the two of us, BMW's that we are! :)
Love you, Katie!

Wednesday, November 4, 2009

A Day in the Life of a JUC Grad Student

Disclaimer: While all of these events are unlikely to occur on any ONE given day, they are things that I am likely to see or experience at any given time.

1. Walking to school in the rain. Up hill. Both ways. Not even exaggerating. Oh how I hope it snows this winter!

2. Night-time field studies to the Israel Museum. This includes
a. Catching a taxi near the school with three other people, trying to haggle for a decent price, and hopefully managing to end up at the Israel Museum by 6pm
b. Once the whole class trickles in, in groups of four, entering the museum (at least the part that is open) and the proceeding to stand and/or sit outside for well over an hour. Fortunately it had stopped raining. Still cold.
c. Looking at the Second Temple period model of Jerusalem. It is a pretty sweet model, I have to say.
d. Reading about odd Rabbinical-type-people. Like Choni the circle-drawer. Or about the disagreements of Shammai and Hillel.
e. Sitting inside in warm, comfortable chairs, and watching an interesting movie about the community at Qumran. And by interesting I don't really mean "informative" but more "rather odd."
f. Going inside the Shrine of the Book and seeing artifacts from Qumran, including several Dead Sea Scroll fragments.
g. Trying to catch another taxi home...walking to the bottom of the hill to try to find one that will give us a better price...and saving maybe 12 NIS in the end, in exchange for walking further.
h. Gathering my things from school, and then walking home. Up hill. At least it wasn't raining, and the walk did warm me up.

3. Playing board games as part of my upper level graduate class...
...Yeah, I suppose I should explain this. For this week, we were each assigned a country or region (Edom, Moab, Ammon, Syria, Phoenicia, Israel, Judah, Philistia, and (my region) the raiders of the Greater Negev). We were to research sort of the political and economic type pressures and desires of our area during the 9th century BC. What was their resource base? What were they trying to gain? Who were they trying to trade with? Who would be natural enemies and who would be natural allies? All that sort of thing. In class we laid things out on the map and talked about what DID happen during the 9th century and why, as well as what COULD have happened (and maybe did happen during a different time period).

4. Watching beautiful sunsets from the roof of a building built on the remains of a tower from the Hasmonean period.

5. Trying to take care of and keep track of several visitors coming and going and coming again in my flat...and also trying to keep track of the coming and going of my flatmates.

6. Cooking. Lots of cooking. Including experimenting with new-to-me foods, such as quinoa and kohlrabi.

And that's all for tonight! Tune in next week for more adventures in the life of a JUC Grad Student! *cue music*

Saturday, October 31, 2009

The View from Afar

Though I have never claimed to be the most informed citizen, occasionally I do still keep up with random doing in the States, though friends, family, internet, podcasts, etc. For the most part I can still understand and relate to what is going on, but every now and something strikes a foreign note and I think, "Oh, I'd forgotten about that!" Or "What, that's going on there?"

Perhaps the thing that struck me most recently is the occurrence of fall and Halloween, neither of which has put in an appearance over here. I read the comics far more often than I read news stories, and they are full of pumpkins and costumes, candy and fallen leaves. It rather surprises me to remember that all this is a part of daily life over there right now, and then to realize that I don't really miss it. Technically speaking, I do miss fall a lot. Halloween is not a holiday whose absence I'll mourn, though. Today we were talking about all the money that people spend on Halloween and the skanky costumes women seem to find so necessary. Yeah, I don't miss that. I rather appreciate the generally conservative dress standards here.

I also suppose that Thanksgiving and Christmas decorations are out with vengeance, ensuring that people will be sufficiently (materially) prepared for these holidays months in advance. This is the second year that I've missed those preparatory months…and I don't really miss them. At least not that part of them.

It's very odd, but the culture I grew up in is slowly becoming slightly more foreign to me. Come to think of it, I never did fit into that culture all that well to begin with. I'm going to be a REALLY ODD DUCK once I arrive back "home." Consider yourself warned, months in advance.

Reflections on past thoughts

Though it's been a while since I've posted much of anything here, it's not from lack of thought. It may be from lack of coherent thought, but I'll try to lay some of my more recent thoughts in order here, for your viewing pleasure.

One thing I've been reflecting on is how much coming here has changed me. For example:

The other day I was reflecting on the time, 11 years ago this month, when I came to Jerusalem for the first time.

I remember visiting the Church of the Holy Sepulcher and one of the members of our group was yelled at by a priest because he supposed his picture had been taken. Looking back, that seems so bizarre. I have since been to the church, numerous times, with numerous people and numerous cameras and have never had any similar incidents. I think it must have been just a fluke - the priest there that day, who was probably also a tourist, was just extra sensitive about pictures or something. I remember that we as a group were a little freaked out about it, though, wondering if that was the norm, wanting not to do anything wrong.

We were so naive, both in our daringness and in our caution. Some of the things we avoided doing out of caution were just as crazy as some of the things we did out of ignorance. Of course, that was pre-intifada. Some things have changed in Jerusalem since then. Nevertheless, it amuses me to remember some of my thoughts from that time.

For another example, the other day I asked one of my friends who started in the master's program here at the same time I did, "Do you ever think about what an idiot you were?" Realizing quickly that it probably wasn't the most tactful question, I started to back-track and explain. Fortunately, he realized what I was getting at and a terrible misunderstanding was avoided. The thing is, looking back, I remember all sorts of little thoughts and expectation and ideas that I had about the world and Israel and even higher education, and slowly but surely, those ideas have been almost imperceptibly changed. Yet looking back, the change is dramatic. Ideas of what is safe and what isn't have been revised as experience has informed my knowledge. Experiences that were once new and strange have become part of daily life. Which is not to say that I feel utterly independent and capable of living here indefinitely, but I am closer.

In a similar way, it's interesting to talk to the semester students or other people who arrived here a relatively short time ago. I hear some of the thoughts that I used to think about Israel coming out of their mouth. I myself have only been here about a year, but that has been long enough to dramatically change the way I think, in some areas at least. I consider my past self rather naive, and I daresay that if I continue to stay here, my future self will think the same of my present self. So, every now and then, when I hear some of the semester students talking, I sort of shake my head and smile to myself and wonder at Dr. Wright's and Diane's great patience in putting up with the same stupid questions and actions semester after semester. I'm grateful for it, though.

I suppose this sort of process always happens when one goes to a foreign country. At first everything is new and exciting (or frightening), but after a year or two, things start to settle into a (hopefully) more proper perspective.

I wonder, though, if in some ways this process is more painfully obvious in the holy land. The people who come here are not generally of the sort who travel to learn about food and culture and see the scenery in a different land. That may be part of the package, but most tourists come here for a religious reason, a pilgrimage, more or less. I won't speak for Jews or Muslims or even orthodox Christians, but most Protestants seem to come feeling that they have a knowledge about and connection to the land, something like "This is the place where Jesus lived and I've studied Jesus all my life so I should know something about it." There is an impossibility of separating the land of Israel from the theology of the visitor. While this is not necessarily a bad thing in and of itself, it can often lead to erroneous views being passionately propounded. Rather than taking the time to sit and listen and learn about the land from the inhabitants (as I assume one would do in any other country one visited) people tend to take hard and fast stands, such as: "Israel has the right to exist and should push all the Palestinians out," or "Israel is an oppressive government and the Palestinians deserve their own country," or "No one in the Orthodox Church can possibly be actually saved," or "Of course Archaeology proves/disproves [you choose] the Bible!" for a few examples. Armed with these and other immutable ideas, evangelicals descend upon the "Holy Land" and wreak all sorts of havoc. It doesn't help that no matter what inflexible stance someone takes, there will be someone here with a stance that is diametrically opposed, possibly even in the same tour group.

To my shame, such opinions may have not differed so very much from my own not long ago. If nothing else, my time here has emphasized to me the importance of listening to all sides of a story before forming an opinion, and, even once some sort opinion has been formed, to be very careful, tactful, and reasonable in expressing it. I don't wish to imply that it is wrong to ever take a stand, but there are times when it is wiser to be slow to decide.

Monday, October 26, 2009

The Shuk

Today I went to the big Jerusalem shuk (open air market) for the first time, which is rather sad, considering how long I've lived here. It was about time.

So this morning I headed off with my friend Anna. It's a bit of a walk, though not too bad. I'm still working on putting the city together in my mind, so it helped. I need to get out more.

I rather enjoyed the shuk itself. All sorts of colorful displays of fruits and vegetables, meat, fish, nuts, grains...whatever you could want.

...occasionally birds also take advantage of the spread.

Generally priced cheaper than anywhere else in the city. As we had just gotten groceries for our flat yesterday I didn't buy much. Just oatmeal, beans, and some pita. (We kind of eat a lot of pita here.) I did get to watch Anna buy all sorts of goodies, though. I rather like the atmosphere. Ironically, not at all like Walmart.

One place also had some really cool fruits that neither Anna nor I recognized. They looked sort of like pink and green artichokes. After googling it, I discovered that they are "Dragon Fruits" or "Pitaya." They look tasty.


Thus ends the tale of my shuk trip.

Monday, October 19, 2009

Heart, we will...stand and wait

Just for fun, here are two poems I have come to enjoy for various reasons and in various ways over the years.


Sonnet 19: On His Blindness
John Milton

When I consider how my light is spent,
Ere half my days in this dark world and wide,
And that one talent which is death to hide
Lodged with me useless, though my soul more bent
To serve therewith my Maker, and present
My true account, lest He returning chide,
'Doth God exact day-labour, light denied?'
I fondly ask. But patience, to prevent
That murmur, soon replies, 'God doth not need
Either man's work or his own gifts. Who best
Bear his mild yoke, they serve him best. His state
Is kingly: thousands at his bidding speed,
And post o'er land and ocean without rest;
They also serve who only stand and wait.'



Heart, We Will Forget Him!
Emily Dickinson

Heart, we will forget him!
You and I, tonight!
You may forget the warmth he gave,
I will forget the light.

When you have done, pray tell me
That I my thoughts may dim;
Haste! lest while you're lagging.
I may remember him!

Wednesday, October 14, 2009

Diaspora Museum

This last Friday I went on a field study for my "History of the Jews in the Medieval and Modern Periods." We went to the Diaspora Museum in Tel Aviv. We spent a good 4 hours there, and probably would have stayed longer if they hadn't been closing early because of Sukkot.

To summarize, the museum looks at various aspects of life for Jews in the diaspora and attempts to answer the question of how they remained essentially Jewish, in spite of 2000 years separated not only from their homeland, but also from each other as they were spread across the globe. They put the answer into 6 "Gateways," which, if I remember correctly were:
1. The Life cycle (birth, circumcision, education, bar mitzvah, marriage, etc.) and the the yearly cycle (Rosh Hashannah, Yom Kippur, Sukkot, etc.)
2. Communities, separate from the peoples with whom they dwelt, including their own governmental structures.
3. Remembering (both persecution and accomplishments)
4. Faith (and places faith is expressed)
5. Culture, as anchored in language
6. Among the Nations (and their history as connected to some of the places they were dispersed)

The museum finished with one final gate:
7. The Gate of Return

It was an interesting museum, different because it had very few real artifacts, but many imitations to assist it in the story it told.

Here are a few pictures from the museum:
The Hebrew in the back ground has the heading "Lo Tov" (no good) and clearly the scene in the foreground is that of a wedding. Not to fear, though. The conclusion is not that marriage is not good, but rather that "it is not good for man to be alone." (Genesis 2:18)

In the "Faith" gateway they had a number of model synagogues from all over the world. This first one is from Florence, Italy.
And this one is Chinese.

These two statues are called Ecclesia and Synagoga and I'm sure you can guess what the represent.
Such is the picture of Judaism under 'Christian' rule.

This next picture is an illustration of a passage from the Talmud "If two grasp a garment."

A menorah near the end of the museum - Welcome back to Israel!

After the museum closed we ate some lunch in the Sukkah. Then we went to Old Jaffa for a little while and just explored. If nothing else, the water the is beautiful.
It was a good trip. I got to hang out with my sister AND learn a lot about Judaism and the history of the Jewish people. I'm only auditing the class, but I'm looking forward to learning all sorts of things in there this semester.